When wine produced in a region or
area with an Appellation Contrôlée
(AOC) does not
comply strictly with the AOC
rules, it usually reverts to the
Vin de Pays classification. In
the Roussillon there are three
VdPs: the broad-brush regional
VdeP d’Oc, the more localised
VdeP des Pyrénées, and the
recently granted (2002) VdeP
des Côtes Catalanes. VdePs
and the Vins de Table (VdTs)
account for half of the 1.5
million hectolitres obtained
from the 38,000 hectares under
vine in Pays Côtes Catalanes,
the majority being red wine.
That said, 90% of France’s
sweet AC whites (Vins Doux
Naturels) also come from the
region. During the summer, the
dry whites have much appeal,
both in France and abroad.
White grenache, macabeu and,
more recently, vermentino are
varieties allowed in the
Roussillon AC but not muscat,
chardonnay, sauvignon blanc
or viognier. Producers here
have been quick to respond to
the recent following and
demand for dry muscat, the
aromatic viognier and
chardonnay (and chardonnay
blends). And many younger
vignerons are turning their
attention to sustainable,
organic and even biodynamic vine growing
and wine production. In this dry region with
a lot of strong winds, many vine problems –
mildew and rot, for instance – hardly exist.
The governing wine body for the
Roussillon wine, the CIVR, based in
Perpignan, offers a vast array of literature in
English, French and German for anyone
wishing to learn more or tour the region’s
vintners. A phone call is enough to visit
growers, but be prepared for some narrow,
steep roads. There are 15 different types of
soil, and vineyards vary from dead flat to
sometimes a 60° slope. A 4x4 is better than a
sports car!
With a vast range of wines, all palates
can be satisfied. As to pairing it with food,
few can match the French Catalan.
The Catalan wines
Besides chardonnay and sauvignon blanc,
the main vines grown include:
Grenache blanc: not often seen on its
own in a wine as it is prone to severe
oxidation, but makes an excellent blend with
maccabeu, viognier and chardonnay.
Maccabeu: originally Spanish
(macabeo), gives light, delicate, floral wine
that is greatly enhanced when blended with
chardonnay, white grenache or vermentino.
Muscat: two varieties. When made as a
dry unfortified wine and served chilled, it
produces the most delightful of all aromatic
white wines. A good balance of acidity is
needed or it can be flabby in the mouth.
Some producers blend it with chardonnay,
maccabeu or vermentino. An ideal apéritif or
with simple fish and poultry dishes.
Vermentino (or rolle): originally from
Liguria and Sardinia, this grape is slightly
aromatic, producing crisp and acidic wines if
picked early. When blended with chardonnay,
it is ideal for any dish containing mussels.
Viognier: the cult grape of the past two
decades has had a major impact on the area’s
aromatic, dry white wines. Although it is
regularly seen on a VdP label, it is still not
recognised for an AC, unlike the two other
white grape imports from the Rhône valley,
marsanne and roussanne. Almost
overwhelming aromas of dried fruit,
particularly apricot. It matches well with
many desserts.
Visiting cellars
To those not wishing to travel on rough
terrain, Rivesaltes and Calce both provide a
number of cellars offering good wines and a
free tasting:
Domaine Cazes: 4 rue Francisco Ferrer,
Rivesaltes. Tel. 04 68 64 08 26
Château Rombeau: Rivesaltes. Tel. 0468
64 35 35
Domaine Olivier Pithon: 19 route
d’Estagel, Calce. Tel. 04 68 38 50 21
For those with a biodynamic interest, a
visit to Thomas Lubbe at Domaine Matassa
in Calce is essential. There, you will have to
travel on the byroads, but Thomas and
Nathalie, together with partner Sam Harrop,
offer not only spectacular wines, but also
explanations of modern organic and
biodynamic viticulture. Tel. 04 68 64 10 13
CIVR, ave. de Grande-Bretagne, Perpignan:
04 68 51 21 22
|
Downtime 
