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What’s new, Primeur donna? Print E-mail
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Friday, 16 November 2007
The annual rush to produce a drinkable, properly made wine to be drunk worldwide in the year the grapes were grown notably started with the arrival of Beaujolais Nouveau in 1951. Its release date then was November 15 at 1am from the vintner’s gate. A lot has changed since then. Most regions now produce a Nouveau (or Primeur) red, white and even rosé. The release date is now, for AC wines, the third Thursday in November, from a controlled, bonded warehouse anywhere from Japan and Australia to California and Alaska.
For wines under the Vin de Pays category, often with a varietal name on the label, the third Thursday in October is the norm but local variations are in force.
The Nouveau reds and rosés should be soft, fresh, fruity, with aromas and a taste of raspberries, strawberries and cherries, and have low tannins and good acidity. Both are designed for drinking early, preferably by Christmas. The production method is often by semi- or full carbonic maceration which can give aromas of bubble-gum or bonbon anglaise. The white wines should be crisp and clean with good fruit, often citrus or apple.
A Nouveau party with barbecued food, served outdoors, or indoors in bad weather, can brighten up a dull November evening.

The Nouveau selection

This is one time in the year when there is no problem about tasting before you buy. Many producers, cooperatives and stores have these young wines on dégustation gratuite for at least the first few days from release. Prices and quality vary considerably so it is worth looking round.

For the Beaujolais and Mâconnais, taste before you buy, but be wary of the least expensive wines.
Duboeuf, Loron and Boisset are usually very reliable for Beaujolais; in the Mâconnais, most of the Caves Co-opératives will be offering a chardonnay-based Nouveau. If you live there, pay a visit to a few of the producers: it can be well worth it.

Caves de Régusse, with 25 shops all over France, is offering a 70% syrah/30% merlot red and a 100% dry muscat white Nouveau this year. When we tasted the wines at the end of fermentation but prior to bottling, at their cellars in Pierrevert (04), they were full of Eastern promise.
Cave Régusse: tel. 04 92 72 30 44 for your nearest outlet.

Sauvion in the Loire will be offering a Muscadet AC from the third Thursday in November. This wine already promises to be crisp and dry with excellent fruit. It will make an ideal accompaniment to shellfish and fish on the ‘barbie’, for that last outside meal. Sauvion at Château de Cléray (44) in the Loire will be offering ‘Sauvion Nouvelle Récolte’ from November 15 and not their more traditional Muscadet primeur. OEnologist Jean-Pierre Sauvion has promised a wine that is “dry, well-balanced and fresh with flavours of peach, pear and honeysuckle, and good length”. The retail price will be under €5.
Tel. Ghislaine Cate at Sauvion: 02 40 36 22 55

Early vendange gives mixed promises

The 2007 grape harvest was again very early. Many regions started picking in August or at the beginning of September. The quantity is down, probably a good thing. The quality varies by region. The Loire Valley reports a vintage which “varies considerably across the region, but is generally early, good quality but low in quantity”. Burgundy and Beaujolais state that “vineyard hygiene is under control”, while the southwest claims “hygiene control is excellent”. Inter Rhône confirms the vineyards “are in a good state”, a fact that ‘French News’ verified on a visit as the harvest started. Bordeaux has only given the dates of harvesting, offering nothing about quality or quantity. In Provence, where the vendanges started on August 17, the quantity is well down but quality is good. In Alsace, an interview on the Hugel et Fils website with the ebullient and wellloved octogenarian Johnnie Hugel gives details of the harvest and shows just how ripe the grapes are in the vineyards. In conclusion, this vintage is likely to be average to good.

Image

Jocelyn Plat presenting his Primeur Régusse at his store in Gap at the launch on October 18. Vin Primeur Blanc 2007 is 100% muscat, a dry, very crisp, clean, aromatic and fruity white. Vin Primeur Rouge 2007 is 70% syrah and 30% merlot. Dry, with an excellent bouquet of red berry fruits that follow through on both the palate and the finish. Both are on sale at €4.65.
 
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