|
Downtime Food & Wine-National News Riesling, a partner comme il faut for festive food
| Riesling, a partner comme il faut for festive food |
|
|
| Tuesday, 11 December 2007 | |
|
Never mind all the publicity in
2007 mooting Alsace wines’
marriageability with Asian food,
these wines can also be excellent with
the foie gras, poultry, and fish served at
this season. The Appellation Controlée Alsace only allows seven grape varieties in the still wines. The varietal name must appear on the label unless it is Edelzwicker (noble blend), the lowest wine in the batting order. All AC Alsace wines must be bottled in the region. Riesling, the king of the seven grapes, is believed to have come from Germany, arriving in Alsace around the ninth century. It thrives in the dry Alsatian climate and long, warm autumns, being a late ripener, thin skinned, but very sensitive to rot. These qualities come out in a range of wines from dry to extremely sweet, nobly rotted (pourriture noble – botrytis) and very expensive dessert wines. Riesling is grown in many other countries but in France very little is found outside Alsace. From only 787 hectares in 1958, Riesling vineyards today cover just under 4,000 hectares. What is its magic? Its versatility with food – and that’s why it is an ideal partner for the vast variety of food on end-of-year celebration tables. Start with a standard Riesling, best when no more than two years old, crisp and clean with delicate citrus aromas and certain mineral overtones. Its balanced acidity makes it an ideal match for the oiliness of smoked salmon. Prices are around €8 to €10 per bottle. Now move on to an older Riesling, harvested at full maturity and with an extra year or two in bottle: it will be slightly more golden, have more body and fruit, perhaps a degree more alcohol and the occasional hint of oiliness… the finish will be long. This is ideal for all poultry and baked ham, and will also stand up to the various stuffings and sauces. Some will be labelled Riesling Grand Cru, an AC in its own right, but some producers call their equivalents by names such as ‘Traditional’, ‘Special Selection’ or even a brand name. Expect to pay between €15 and €25 a bottle. Finally with the Yule log, Christmas pud or other sweet indulgences, select a riesling Vendange Tardive, made from overripe, often botrytis-affected grapes. A 15-year lifespan is not uncommon for these wines. Lusciously sweet, aromatic and full-bodied, with the aroma and taste of honey, tropical fruit, caramel and raisin, this is the perfect end to the meal. Depending on age and quality, you can pay between €20 and €45 per bottle. Visiting Paris before Christmas or waiting to travel to the East of France? From December 4 to 16 at the Gare de l’Est in Paris there is an Alsace spectacular ‘L’Alsace fête Noël’ – open daily from 9am until 8pm. To all our food and wine buffs, wherever you are spending your festive season – bon appetit et bonne santé.  Our Fab Five Rieslings This Christmas selection comes from family firms dating from the early 17th century: the well-known Hugel and Becker, and a small producer, Freudenreich. • Riesling ‘Hugel’ 2005 AC (alc. 12% by vol.) Dry, with aromas of citrus and minerals, crisp and clean on the palate with a moderate finish. Excellent with smoked fish. • Riesling Grand Cru Pfersigberg 2004 (12.5%) Freudenreich Pfersigberg vineyard is renowned for its early ripening grapes and full-flavoured wines which are excellent for ageing. This young wine is the epitome of the vigour of Alsace Rieslings. • Riesling Grand Cru Froehn 2004 (13.5%) Becker Froehn is a south-south-east facing vineyard on a small sandstone hill near the village of Zellenberg. This wine has the AB (Agriculture Biologique) organic label. Pink grapefruit aromas, full-bodied with an excellent balance of fruit and acidity and long finish, it goes well with any poultry main course. Ideal for ageing five years or more. • Riesling ‘Hugel’Vendange Tardive 1998 (12.5%) A classic, top-of-the-range, fully mature late-harvested wine, deliciously sweet, with honey and raisin notes and an extremely long finish. It is not easy to find fully mature dessert wines nowadays, but this one is worth every cent. • Riesling Vendanges Tardives Sonnenglanz 2002 (12.5%) Becker From a Grand Cru vineyard in Beblenheim on calcareous clay, this is a jewel of a dessert wine. Aromatic, with hints of oiliness (petrol) and honey, luscious but with good acidity and not cloying – it just lasts and lasts. Keeps for many years. It is often better, and easier, to buy these wines direct from the producer. Delivery throughout France. Contact details: Jean-Luc Freudenreich, 32, Grand Rue, 68420 Eguisheim. Tel. 03 89 24 96 91 David Ling, Hugel et Fils, 68340 Riquewihr. Tel 03 89 47 92 15. www.hugelboutique.com Martine Becker, Vins Becker, 68340 Zellenberg. Tel 03 89 47 90 16 |
| < Prev | Next > |
|---|
| Drive to help women boost their UK state pensions |
| Further to recent articles in French News about women's pensions, the UK Department of Work and Pensions has issued a press release explaining that "women pensioners could boost their state pension or even be in line for a windfall payment under special terms. | |
| Read more... |
