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Wednesday, 20 February 2008
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Metrostop Paris -
History from the City’s Heart

By Gregor Dallas
John Murray Feb 2008 240 p. paperback
Village Voice €18, Your French News Price €16

The British-born, US-educated historian Gregor Dallas has taken a break from writing about how nations at war manage the difficult transition to peace – the subject of his earlier ‘War and Peace Trilogy’ – and gives free rein to his fondness for recounting littleknown anecdotes or well-known stories viewed from a fresh and startling perspective.
He chooses twelve episodes rooted in the history and scenery of Paris and connects them with as many stops on the metro. The connections seem far-fetched at times, but no matter – the stories are good and Dallas brings them and their setting alive. He’s the kind of storyteller who keeps darting off on what seem to be tangents but eventually turn out to be threads in a pattern that makes sense when viewed as a whole.

From the catacombs and execution grounds below the Barrière d’Enfer – Hell’s Gate – at metro Denfert-Rochereau to the Villette, the site of the city abattoirs in the 19th century and the cauldron from which one of the weirdest political movements in French history sprang – the anti-Semitic union of butchers in purple shirts and ten-gallon hats led by the “cowboy” Marquis de Morès – Dallas takes the reader on a dizzying tour of Paris from the fifth century to the 1950s. On the way we meet a bizarre assortment of characters, from a Norman soldier named Montgomery who killed King Charles IX in a jousting accident to Saint-Vincent de Paul, Oscar Wilde, Claude Debussy, Jean-Paul Sartre, the psychoanalyst Otto Rank – even, for a brief appearance, Adolf Hitler. Some of the episodes are lurid, like the account of Anais Nin’s abortion in her sixth month of pregnancy in 1934, or the statistics about abandoned babies and the booming wet-nurse industry of the early 1800s. Others seem a little strained: few art historians would go along with labelling the sculptor Antoine Bourdelle (1861–1929) the “inventor of Modernism”, and the connection between Nin’s affair with Rank and Hitler’s visit to the Trocadero in June 1940 seems tenuous, to say the least.
But Dallas enjoys short-circuiting history to produce such sparks.
His inspired tinkering leaves the reader with a sense of what it must have felt like to live in the times and places he describes. As you walk down the Rue du Faubourg Saint- Denis in his company you catch a whiff of the “effluvia and foetish gases” that indisposed the Reverent Norgate when he trod these same cobblestones (now covered with asphalt) in 1815. This is history you can smell.
 
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