The Royan area promises the fun of the seaside plus plenty of picturesque rambles and outings for all the family.
Virtually wiped out in World War II, the centre of
Royan had to be entirely rebuilt and boasts
some extraordinary modern architecture. One of
the most unusual is the shell-shaped market, open
every morning, when it is one of the liveliest places
in town – so lively that in summer it is advisable to
visit it before 9.30am.
A few blocks away, the commanding concrete
church of Notre-Dame, built between 1952 and
1956, may not be to everyone’s taste. Yet push the
door, take a look at the pictures which recall part of
the history of Royan and behold the monumental
organ, modern stained-glass windows and a
vertiginously high roof: a breathtaking sight.
The harbour is another nice spot, simply for a
drink or, away from the souvenir shops, to breathe
in the mixed odours of iodine, fuel oil and fish and
watch the ferries and trawlers leave and enter the
port. From here you can wander along the Grande-
Conche, the town’s main beach.
Once past the modern sea front, an entirely
different sight awaits you. Facing the sea, nestling
under the pine trees, the luxurious villas spared by
the 1945 bombings bring back memories of the
late 19th century, the Belle Époque.
Another lovely walk is the chemin douanier
(customs path), which follows the shore from the
port up to Grande-Côte, passing through the towns
of Vaux-sur-Mer and Saint-Palais-sur-Mer. Here is a
succession of fine sandy beaches and lovely bays,
with still more Belle Époque mansions and the
occasional carrelet (fisherman’s hut). The small,
very sober church of Vaux-sur-Mer (12th century)
is a fine specimen of Romanesque architecture.
Don’t miss La Palmyre zoo, one of Europe’s
largest, set in a beautiful pine forest, the Fôret de la
Courbe. A climb of some 300 steps to the top of La
Courbe lighthouse will take you almost 200 feet
above sea level, another breathtaking view.
The area has its share of charming villages. Two of
the most remarkable are Talmont and Mornac-sur-
Seudre. The narrow streets of Mornac, with its
typical Charentais houses (white-washed walls and
grey-blue shutters) make a pleasant stroll. The
town has shops where you can find pottery, watercolours
and other arts and crafts and, on the main
street, a place where you’ll find the best fruit tarts
you’ve ever had. The church is not too noticeable,
but the narrow spiral staircase up to the steeple is
fun to climb for a view of the surrounding marsh.
Talmont is a tiny peninsula on the Gironde, with
yet more shops, yet more typically Charentais
houses, hollyhocks, carrelets, 82 residents and a
beautiful Romanesque church.
There’s definitely a lot to see in the Royan area – but
you’ll still have time to enjoy the beautiful beaches. Be
careful, though, especially on the Côte Sauvage, between
Grand-Côte and Bonne-Anse; at high tide, the currents
can be very rough and quite dangerous.
Don’t spoil your holidays!
Unmissable sights in the Royan area
The ‘green’ road of the Côteaux de Gironde
The coast path (GR4) as far as the Côte Sauvage
The coast road and its carrelets
Oyster route of the Bassin de Marennes-Oléron
The villages of Talmont and Mornac
Troglodytic caves of Meschers
Cordouan, a royal edifice, and other lighthouses
Moulin du Fâ, an important Gallo-Roman site
Maritime and oyster museum, La Tremblade
Royan and its ’50s architecture
Musée de la Poche de Royan on the history of
Royan and its liberation
Heritage route of the Romanesque
churches and ‘secrets of the countryside’
Hermitage of Saint-Martial, Mortagne-sur-Gironde
Les Jardins du Monde (Royan)
Useful information:
Communauté d’agglomérations
du Pays Royannais, Service Tourisme,
107 Route de Rochefort, 17201 RoyanCedex
Tel: 0033 (0)5 46 22 19 20
Fax: 0033 (0)5 46 5 60 34
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www.pays-royannais.com
Centrale de Réservation (Booking centre)
Pays Royannais Résa,
Tel: 0033 (0)5 46 22 19 19,
Fax: 0033 (0)5 46 22 19 18
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