A balmy microclimate, impressive fortifications, enticing eateries and Europe’s largest marina make this port a magical destination.

In 1150, monks from Cluny settled on the Île d’Aix. They taught the fisher-folk to use the sun to make wine and salt. Naturally, the skill spread to the small community settled among the marshes at La Rochelle.
The region of Poitou-Charentes was, in the times of Eleanor, part of Aquitaine and, through her second marriage to Henry Plantagenet, disputably part of the English possessions, so much of the export trade went to Britain and northern Europe. In 1199, this strong and charismatic lady gave considerable autonomy to the first mayor of La Rochelle, by granting a charte de commune which virtually made it a tax haven.

Thriving from 1200 on the lucrative salt trade and later the wine and cognac business, the relatively young city of La Rochelle had, by the 15th century, become a thriving commercial port and a fortress, the rocky spur encircled by imposing ramparts. These were later extended to embrace the harbour.
By about 1530, the ideas of Martin Luther and the Reformation had reached La Rochelle, from Britain and Scandinavia via the sea. Religion became the front for a war which lasted, on and off, for 36 years. With Protestant alliances threatening the French throne, the monarchy was unsettled and France was ideologically split into two camps, the Huguenots and the Catholics.

La Rochelle, strongly defended, prosperous, independent and sympathetic to Reformist ideas, became a focal point. Henri de Navarre, a Huguenot leader, was also in line for the throne. On the assassination of Henri III, he had a dilemma: if he abjured Protestantism he would be crowned King. He abjured and became Henri IV, bringing peace at last… though only for a dozen years or so.
Envious of the benefits of the East India Company which used Lorient in Brittany as its central depot, La Rochelle’s 415th mayor went to learn some tricks from the Hanseatic League and forged strong links with the Caribbean. A later trade link developed with Canada, particularly Quebec, where furs, wood and precious stones were imported in exchange for cognac, wine and other French specialities.

left to right: the Lanterne tower, lighthouse of Quai Vallin and Saint-Nicolas tower.

Today, La Rochelle is known for its massive marina Les Minimes and floating boat show Le Grand Pavois in September, its pioneering use of the electric car, the French music festival the Francofolies and the huge modern aquarium. The massive sea defences are an exhilarating backdrop to a meal out along the front.
Shoppers stay dry in all weathers under the sheltering arcades along the main shopping streets, lined with some fancy facades including the ornate Chamber of Commerce. The town has a wealth of interesting museums to explore. One little gem on the rue du Temple is a perfumery housing a collection of historic scent bottles, with designs by Lalique, Dali and Cocteau.