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| Wishing upon a star... Michelin: still a chef’s highest honour |
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| Thursday, 17 April 2008 | |
 Every chef’s dream is to be honoured with a Michelin Star. Out of all the restaurant guides, Michelin is the most prestigious for both chef and restaurateur, and among all Michelin’s worldwide guides, the most sought after is the Red Guide to France. The 2008 gastronomy bible was published last month while restaurateurs and their clientele eagerly waited to see if their restaurants were among those awarded or demoted. A total of 529 restaurants were credited, bringing the count of one-star restaurants in France to 435. But only one restaurant, Le Petit Nice in Marseille, was upgraded to three-star status. Acquiring a Michelin star is the highest honour a chef can hope to achieve. After receiving one, it must be valued and standards must be kept consistently high – just one bad meal served can cost a restaurant a star, in some cases their only star. Michelin trends are constantly changing. This year’s tendency is to sing the praises of the smaller establishments located in rural areas, serving authentic traditional cuisine. Young chefs who find ways of bringing their individual style into their dishes are also in favour. Worldwide, there are currently eighty Michelin-employed inspectors. But before being released into a wilderness of Grands Crus Classés, truffle coulis and exotic sorbets, the inspectors – who for the most part are école hôtelière graduates – must first undergo an extensive training period, which can last up to a year. It is only then that they are truly ready to take on the 16-hour days of driving, eating and writing. All inspections are performed in the utmost secrecy. Some inspectors even choose to conceal their occupation from their families, as any information leaked before the guide’s publication can result in an inspector’s suspension. Before any decisions can be made though, many a discussion takes place behind closed doors. It is only after much deliberating, not unlike a jury, that critics and editors come to a verdict on which establishments they feel are deserving of the Michelin honour. But – good luck finding out why a restaurant was awarded... or not. The reasons are never made clear to the public. After more than 80 years, the starry institution still succeeds in retaining its air of mystery. |
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