The name of Entre Deux Mers
(between two seas) can be very
confusing, even to a French
person. The geographical area is vast,
covering a triangle between the rivers
Gironde and Dordogne of 47,000
hectares within the département of the
Gironde. In contrast, the wine
appellation is only 1,700 hectares.
The INAO rules only allow the dry
white wine to be made with a maximum
of 4g per litre residual sugar. Even then
there are further complications since,
like all Bordeaux wines, blending of
grape varieties is the general rule. EDM,
as it is often known, is a blend of a
minimum of 70% of the three major
Bordeaux white grapes – semillon,
sauvignon blanc and muscadelle. The
semillon, thin-skinned, prone to botrytis
and low in acidity, can be high-yielding
but it produces flabby, uninteresting
wines unless kept under control. That
said, it is the main component of
Sauternes. In contrast, the acidic
sauvignon blanc, the star of Sancerre in
the eastern Loire, is renowned for its
grassy, elderflower notes. Muscadelle,
always a minor player in any blend of
Bordeaux whites, is aromatic and grapey
and adds a little extra to both aroma and
taste.
Bordeaux dry whites have only
recently come back into favour with
wine buffs worldwide. The ‘rubbish’
FFF wines – flabby, flat and flavourless
– are a thing of the past and many
volume-only producers have packed
their bags and left. The new boys and
girls on the block and the rest of the old
school prize quality first. Getting the
market to return is another question.
Styles of wine are easy to recognise
on tasting, but not necessarily from a
label, unless an adequate description is
offered. EDM can vary from a grassy,
fresh, crisp, acidic wine – ideal as an
apéritif, or with shellfish or white meat –
to a fuller-bodied, more rounded wine
with hints of butter, stone fruits and a
longish finish, more
acceptable with goat
cheese, fish or poultry
in a sauce.
Our selections this
month, with help from
our friends at Pierre
Montagnac in
Bordeaux, show
contrasting wines from
two quality producers.
Tasting
When visiting
Bordeaux, make an
appointment with
Irene Vacher, at Les
Vins de Pierre
Montagnac, for an
opportunity to select a
full range of Bordeaux
wines from people
who understand the
northern European,
British and Irish
palates.
Call Irene Vacher: 05
56 24 00 75, email
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Les Vins de Pierre Montagnac, 55 rue
Ségalier, 33000 Bordeaux.
Chateau Sainte Marie 2007
AC Entre Deux Mers
Gilles and Stéphane Dupuch
This is the more modern style of EDM.
The blend is 60% sauvignon to 30%
semillon and 10% muscadelle. It is
mainly harvested by hand. The wine
making is modern, using cold
fermentation to bring out the ‘new
mown lawn’ aromas so typical of a
sauvignon blanc. Dry, crisp and clean
with citrus flavours, it is ideal as an
aperitif or with shellfish.
Contact the Dupuch family at Château
Sainte-Marie, 33760 Targon
Château Laurès 2007
AC Entre Deux Mers
Jérôme Trolliet
This is the ‘second label’ wine from
Château Martinon, and a total contrast
to our first selection. A blend of 65%
semillon, 30% sauvignon and 5%
muscadelle, but still using temperaturecontrolled
fermentation, this wine is
aromatic with apricots and tropical
fruits predominating the bouquet. Fuller
and rounder on the palate with a
medium length of finish, it is more
suitable to partner fish dishes with a
sauce and hard goat cheeses. However,
if you are having Apérobic cheeses with
the aperitif it is an ideal match.
Contact Château Martinon,
33540 Gornac, 05 56 61 97 09
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