The Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du
Rhône Villages appellations differ
in how they are blended and
matured. Like most blends of the
southern Rhône, grenache noir is the
major player, backed with syrah and
mourvèdre. The more syrah, the more
body and colour, especially if it is aged
in the barrel.
The appellation Côtes du Rhône
Villages goes back to 1966 when some
villages in the southern Côtes du Rhône
gained the right to add on their village
name. This has become a stepping stone
to a full Appellation Contrôlée.
Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Vinsorbes
are all now ACs in their own right and
Rasteau, home to both the young
winemakers I visited, may be the next;
its Vin Doux Naturel (fortified wine)
already has an AC.
At Domaine Wilfried, winemaker
Réjane Pouzoulas told me about her
‘Villages’ wines from the limestone soils
of Rasteau and Cairanne. “Although the
AC permits a maximum yield of 40
hectolitres per hectare, we limit ours to
around 30 to ensure the best quality. We
are not ‘gong chasers’ but our Rasteau
was selected for the Gilbert and Gaillard
Wine Guide for 2008,” she explained.
The grapes are harvested by hand and resorted
at the winery before fermentation
starts. The Cairanne is made
traditionally: the grapes are destalked,
and aged in oak, but the Rasteau is aged
in concrete vats so is less tannic, more
fruit-forward with hints of liquorice.
Hervé Bessac, the third-generation
owner of Domaine Bessac in nearby
Violès, makes both appellations. His
Plan de Dieu was awarded the ‘Villages’
status three years ago. The wine is
fermented at strictly controlled
temperatures for three weeks, then
matured in concrete vats. “The soil here
is extremely stony, but fairly flat, so we
harvest by machine. The heat from the
stones gives an early full maturity to the
grapes and hence my wines are fullbodied,”
Hervé told me. “Their high fruit
concentration makes them ideal with red
meat and game. And they are good for
barbecues.” At this small domaine, most
of the wine is sold at the door or by mail
order.
The August Selection
Domaine Wilfried
Côtes du Rhône Villages
Rasteau – 2004
A blend of 60% grenache, 20% syrah,
and 10% each mourvèdre and carignan
is matured in concrete vats. Deep garnet
in colour with a rim beginning to
bronze, it has aromas of griottes and
soft black berry fruits that follow
through on the palate, and almost silky
tannins.
Price €8.50 at the domaine
Domaine Wilfried
Côtes du Rhône Villages
Cairanne – 2005
This wine, 60% grenache, 25% syrah
and 15% mourvèdre, is matured in oak
for nine months and ideal for mid-term
storage. It is almost opaque and has
tastes of black fruits and liquorice, stillpowerful
tannins and a very long finish.
If you drink it before the end of 2008,
decant it an hour or so beforehand.
There was a limited production of 1600
bottles in 2005.
Price €10.50. Domaine Wilfried,
Tel 04 90 46 10 66
Domaine Bessac
Côtes du Rhône Villages
Plan de Dieu – 2006
Made from fully matured grapes from
vines grown in sun-reflecting, stony
soils, and fermented in concrete vats,
Plan de Dieu is 70% grenache and 15%
each of syrah and mourvèdre. It is purply
red, with a bouquet and almost jammy
taste of black summer fruits, spices and
some liquorice. Soft, concentrated, and
lasting in the mouth, it makes an
excellent partner for game, beef and
strong cheeses.
Price €6. Domaine Bessac, route de
Vaison la Romaine, 84150 Violès
Tel 04 90 70 93 19
Both domaines are happy to receive
visitors, but please telephone in advance.
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