• cortese, grown around Gavi in the southern part of Piemonte, producing a dry, austere, minerally wine with hints of almond that pairs well with fish;
• erbaluce, from the north-eastern part of the region near Novara, giving a dry, but fresh wine with floral and hazelnut tones. A rare version is a dessert wine made from grapes that have been picked and semi-dried thus concentrating the grapes’ sugars. This is known as a passito erbaluce.

The Italian wine selection
The wines from the north-eastern part of the region come from the Serra co-operative at Piverone near Novara. They are imported into France by Massimo and Tracy Orione, owners of Massimo’s Pizza Club in Allemans, near Ribérac (see also page 28). Shortly they may be available from Mitch O’Sullivan at Eymet Wines shop in the square in that town.
Erbaluce di Caluso 2006 DOC – 12.5% alc – Cantina Sociale della Serra: Piverone is renowned for its erbaluce vines. Pale lemon colour, with aromas of fresh flowers; dry, crisp, and fresh with hints of citrus and hazelnuts on the palate; it is ideal served at about 8°C as an accompaniment to fish and poultry.
Canavese Nebbiolo 2005 DOC – 13% alc – Cantina Sociale della Serra: a ruby red colour progressing to garnet. This lighter style nebbiolo has the typical tar and violet bouquet but is less tannic and more fruit forward. Serve at 15° to 18°C with red meat dishes.
Contact: Massimo Orione
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Between Cuneo (Coni in French) and Asti, at Mombaruzzo, is one of the innovative newer wineries – Malgrá – set up by a consortium in 1991. Owning 100 hectares of vineyards mainly in the Asti Province they produce the classic style of Piemontese wines.
Barbera d’Asti - 2004 – Superiore DOC – 14% alc – Mora di Sassi – Malgrá: it is well structured, deep red in colour, with an excellent balance of red plum, cherry and blackberry on both nose and in the taste with hints in the latter of tannin from oak maturation. Best drunk with a Sunday roast or game.
Barbaresco – 2004 – DOCG – 13.5% alc. – Monciraldo – Malgrá: the ‘Crown Prince’ (to neighbouring Barolo) of the nebbiolo grape. Aged two years before release with one year in wood, Barbareso is, by any standard, a ‘big’ wine: tar and violet aromas; full-bodied, tannic (which mellows with maturity), red-stone fruit and with more than a hint of oak on the taste, this is a wine that must be served with red meat and game.
Gavi – 2006 – DOCG – 12% alc – Montebastia – Malgrá: A dry, crisp, minerally, floral wine with hints of almonds and a lasting finish. It is ideal as an aperitif, or served with pasta or white meat.
Moscato d’Asti – DOCG – 5% alc – Cugnexio – Malgrá: Produced from the Moscato Canelli grape, and using a variation of the tank method of sparkling wine production, it is a very fragrant and very sweet wine. It is often served in Italy with desserts, particularly summer fruits, and can also be used at festive celebrations for those who prefer lower alcohol wines.

Contact: Malgrá Winery Via Nizza 8, 14046 Mombaruzzo (AT), Italy.
Tel (39) 0131 444 491 (All digits to be dialled)

With thanks to Nico Conta, the CEO of Malgrá, for his help in compiling this article.